DISPATCHES: ARRIVAL IN GREENLAND -- JULY 14, 2003

I knew I wasn't flying first class to Greenland, but I wasn't prepared for the most uncomfortable airplane ride of my life. I'm in an LC-130 "Hercules" aircraft, a four-engine prop plane built specifically for carrying passengers and cargo into polar regions.

The plane is part of a fleet of 10 LC-130s based at Stratton Air National Guard Base in Scotia, New York. The pilots train in Greenland. They also fly scientists to the frozen island.

The "Hercules" is the largest ski-equipped airplane in the world. There is enough room in its cavernous hold to accomodate a tractor-trailer. There are no real seats, overhead compartments, or flight attendants.

The passengers sit along the sides on cot-like benches. Seven of us are journalists on a week-long tour of eastern Greenland and the Greenland ice sheet. We lean our backs against a mess of nylon straps. Most of us are wearing earplugs because the rumble of the turboprops is ear-splitting. Our luggage is a mountain of bags and boxes piled 10-feet high on a wooden pallet in the back of the compartment. Much of the vessel's hydraulic lines, heating ducts and wiring are in plain view, suspended from the ceiling and fastened to the walls in what looks like a jumble (but which I hope is a masterpiece of aeronautical engineering). As this is the first military plane I've ever flown in, I was hoping to see one of those $20,000 toilet seats. But this plane has only a urinal. It's behind a pale-green vinyl curtain. Under the lid covering the stainless steel bowl is a decal with a picture of the deposed leader of Iraq. It says "Sadam Hussein Target Urinal."




The flight of the LC-130
See pictures of an LC-130 during a fueling stop at Raven Base.



THE FLIGHT TO GREENLAND

ARRIVAL

ANTICIPATION

THE DRILLING SITE

STRIKING BOTTOM

TASIILAQ - GREENLAND VILLAGE

GREENLAND TO GREENLAND, VIA ICELAND

SLEDGE PATROL

NEW DIGS


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