Apart from a few military bases, nobody lives in northeast Greenland. So there is essentially no way to get there from anywhere else in the country. I had to go to Iceland first, and fly back from Iceland, the embarkation point for all scientific, military and trekking expeditions to the Northeast Greenland National Park, the largest park in the world. My destination was Traill Island, where Benoit Sittler, a French scientist, had invited me to observe his research on lemmings, the smallest mammal, and only rodent, in Greenland. I arrive in the late evening by Twin Otter airplane, the primary mode of transportation in the Arctic. The landing strip is just a flat gravel plateau that has been cleared of boulders and marked with red flags. Five grizzled men meet me on the landing strip and show me to my tent. They bring me to a tiny tar-paper shack not much bigger than a doghouse where they eat meals and socialize. The cabin was built in the 1930s by fox trappers and abandoned as farm-raised foxes replaced trapping wild ones. Several years ago a Danish historical society renovated the dilapidated structure so it is now watertight and keeps most of the voracious mosquitoes out. Despite the small size, there is room inside for my five hosts and me to crowd around a tiny wooden box that serves as a table and to eat dinner. The following morning, Benoit shows me his research. He has been coming here to study lemmings for about two months each summer for 16 years. This year, in more than a month on the island, neither he nor any of his assistants have seen a single lemming. Most researchers would be disappointed, if not downright distraught if the object of their research had disappeared. But Benoit takes it in stride, since the very essence of his study is why lemming populations fluctuate so dramatically from year to year. After showing me some abandoned lemming nests, we set out to see the sights. First we skirt a steep cliff of black stone on a gravel embankment. The gravel is part of a huge plain of pebbles. In the spring, when the snow is melting, a powerful torrent rages here. But all that is here now is a shallow stream. Benoit points to some polar-bear tracks in some mud, which he believes were made by one of two bears that passed through his camp just a couple days earlier. After several hours walking we reach a little red cabin, stocked with food and emergency supplies. This hut is used by the Sirius Sledge Patrol, the Danish military police that patrols the park by sled dog in the winter. On our return to base camp, we stop on a promontory overlooking an island, about the size of a town common. Several weeks ago the researchers discovered an unfortunate musk ox that neglected to join inland herds when the sea-ice bridging the rocky speck to much larger Traill Island melted away. The animal is unable, or unwilling to swim ashore. Lying there on the ground as we watch, the beast reminds me of The Little Prince and his small asteroid. The researchers suspect the animal has eaten everything there is to consume and will die shortly of starvation. Later, over a dinner of instant soup, reconstituted potatoes and creamed sorrel leaves, the discussion turns to the musk ox. Various schemes are suggested for rescuing the unfortunate beast, such as building a raft of oil drums. One by one we depart for our tents, carrying flare guns for protection, in case a polar bear makes a visit. It is midnight. The sun has disappeared behind the mountains and the sky is dim. Traill Island Meet the research team at Traill Island in Greenland and see photos including remains of musk ox and polar bear tracks. Lemmings See photos of the scatalogical remains lemmings in Greenland. THE FLIGHT TO GREENLAND ARRIVAL ANTICIPATION THE DRILLING SITE STRIKING BOTTOM TASIILAQ - GREENLAND VILLAGE GREENLAND TO GREENLAND, VIA ICELAND SLEDGE PATROL NEW DIGS Vikings | Inuit | Wildlife | Ice Cores | Dispatches | Teacher Guides | Credits © Copyright 2003, WBUR