Tender Pork Taco at Tico (Photo: Susanna Bolle)

It’s hard to believe, but when Chef Joshua Smith of Tico put together the first menu for the restaurant, he and owner Michael Schlow didn’t think tacos would have a place. Now tacos are the most requested dishes at this Latin American-influenced restaurant, located on Berkeley Street in Boston. Granted they are quite inventive, with ingredients like shimp, fried chicken, edamame and the like — Old El Paso, these aren’t.

But Smith’s favorite taco at Tico is among the more straightforward. It’s made with braised pork shoulder. “I’m from the south,” he says, “so I really love pork.” And there’s a smokey element to these tacos that recalls the joys of good southern barbecue, however obliquely.

He’s not alone in his affection for these tacos. Apparently, they provoke strong emotion. Recently, an old chef buddy of Smith’s was in town and asked Smith to make him some tacos. Naturally, Smith chose to make him the tender pork version. As Smith recalls, his friend took one bite, shook his head, looked him in the eyes and said simply: “I love you.”

Yes, these tacos are good. And you can make them at home. Smith says the pork is particularly tasty grilled, and you can grill the tortillas as well.

Tender Pork Taco

2 lbs pork shoulder
12 oz. tomatoes
1/2 white onion
1 carrot
1 celery stalk
2 minced garlic cloves
3 sprigs rosemary
3 sprigs thyme
3 quarts chicken stock
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1/2 tablespoon cumin seed
1 tablespoon ground coriander
2 tablespoons ground black pepper
1 tablespoon crushed red chili flakes
1 tablespoon brown sugar
3 tablespoons paprika

Combine all seasonings. Rub on the pork shoulder. Let sit overnightwrapped in the refrigerator. Next day, sear shoulder on grill.

In separate pan, brown onions in olive oil. Add carrot and celery, and de-glaze with the tomatoes and chicken stock. Place onion/tomato mixture in deep pan. Add garlic. Place seared pork shoulder in pan. Cover in 2 layers of plastic wrap and one layer of foil. Cook slowly in a 300-degree oven for 3 hours or until tender.

(Note: The plastic wrap will slightly melt and form a seal allowing the pork to self baste to set amount of time. In his experience, Chef Josh has not found plastic wrap to be dangerous or harmful; home chefs should make their own choice.)

Let rest overnight in liquid.  Pull the meat, place in separate container.

Green Chile Sauce

1 cup of roasted pureed tomatillo
1 tablespoon of roasted pureed yellow onion
2 each roasted peeled and de-seeded poblano peppers
1/2 bunch of cilantro
1 tablespoon roasted garlic puree
2 cups spinach, packed
sugar to taste
salt to taste

Place all ingredients in a blender and puree well, add a couple ice cubes to keep the mixture cold and this will help with color retention. Season with salt and balance the spice with sugar.

Spicy Cucumber

1 pint water
1/2 pint rice vinegar
1 teaspoon chile de arbol
4 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 1/2 tablespoons salt
1/2 cucumber, sliced thin and quartered

Mix together all of the above ingredients.

Place the pork on top of lightly grilled, 6-inch corn tortilla and top with spicy cucumber and green chile sauce.

Joshua Smith of Tico (Photo: Susanna Bolle)