Photo: Horia Varlan/Flickr

Cauliflower is a bulking, dull, and awkward vegetable that remains unloved and untouched at salad bars across the country. That is, at least while it’s raw — because, roasted, it becomes sublime, an ugly duckling transformed. Raw, its ordinary whiteness evokes a piece of broccoli devoid of flavor; roasted golden brown and even charred, it is striking.

(Forgive me if this is an example of over-the-top food writing. Some people get passionate about politics; I get passionate about the dualism of cruciferous vegetables.)

If you haven’t tried roasted cauliflower before, do yourself a favor before you give up on the veggie completely — try this recipe from Eat Make Read, for a side dish of roasted cauliflower with a walnut pesto. The sweet of the cauliflower mixed with the crunch of the pesto turns a sad vegetable into a stunning beauty. You know that scene in The Breakfast Club where Ally Sheedy puts on a headband and all of a sudden she’s making out with Emilio Estevez? It’s like that.