A Sweet Pizzolo (Photo: Flickr/pandemia)

Alexandra Dimodica

In Italy, each region is virtually a separate country, an area which embodies a unique history, dialect, political view and cuisine. When visiting Sicily, that semi-wild island perpetually kicked by the ‘boot’ of Italy, it’s apparent “we’re not in Tuscany anymore.” Instead of Giotto’s paintings, medieval architecture and glasses of chianti, Sicily offers up Greek ruins, diverse architectural styles and a spin on the mainland’s cuisine. The latter includes, di certo, pizza. In Sicily, it can come with a twist, crepe-like, in fact. It’s called pizzolo, a specialty which hails from Sortino. It may be the magical honey from the nearby hills of this small town that is often discussed. But pizzolo also gives Sortino’s citizens and its visitors something to talk about (and savour).

Like Sicily itself, pizzolo has undergone an evolution. Beginning as a rustic Sicilian bread, it was named facci di vecchia, and also called cuturini, “a pizza with oil, oregano, and grated cheese.” Today, pizzolo is a stuffed pizza or flatbread, with a flakey pastry-like crust. If you are thinking of a calzone, think again. In pizza form, the eight slices provide a meal which begs to be shared, tasted and delighted in. Like the French crepe, this dish can go either way and be savory or sweet.

Walking through Catania’s streets in mid-March, I felt like (and may well have been) the only tourist in sight. Fortunately, I had welcoming guides to show me the way and introduce me to this regional specialty. Through the black volcanic rock Piazza Duomo, past the Sicilian elephant which supports the city’s Egyptian obelisk, down the stairs in the Agorà Hostel to see the underground bar, cave, and stream, we finally arrived at La Pizzoleria, Catania’s local spot for pizzolo.

Inside, the restaurant was inviting. Bright colors, a curving staircase and friendly waiters paved the way. It felt a little bit like OZ. Once we sat down, nero d’avola, a dark Sicilian wine, was flowing, and plate after plate of pizzolo arrived at the table. A meal composed of one dish in many varieties may seem too simple. But pizzoli provide diverse tastes despite their similar form.

Pizzolo can be your appetizer, entrée and dessert. While dining in Catania, I had the chance to taste a pizzolo named after my energetic and knowledgeable host – “alla Gigi,” a mix of ham, mozzarella, mushrooms and arugula. Even as I began to believe I couldn’t consume one more slice of this Sicilian dish, dessert arrived. Aiutami! I finished my meal with a nutella-filled pizzolo that brought me back to the streets of Paris and the sweet memory of a steaming nutella crepe doled out by a local street vendor.

If these ingredients don’t suit your tastebuds, La Pizzoleria has something that will. Other of their “dolci” pizzoli include pistaccio, lemon, and ricotta and lemon, respectively. Savory slices can be filled with ricotta and spinach and broccoli and sausage, to name a few (pizzoli can also be found in Sortino at I Quattro Canti).

While in Catania tasting pizzoli, the technologically-charged world seemed a million miles away. BUT, La Pizzoleria is on Facebook!! Check it out HERE!! (A true measure of this globalized age?) If you are headed to Sicily in the coming months or years, take a bite out of a pizzolo before you head home. Buon appetito!

(Although I’ve looked, I’ve yet to find pizzolo in the Boston area. Readers, have any suggestions?)