Monthly Archives: December 2010

That Concoction, Eggnog

 

Photo: katielips/Flickr

It’s not that I love eggnog, but I really liked this article from earlier in the week on the history of eggnog, and what it’s made of nowadays. I have my own memories of my dad and uncle serving themselves a glass of eggnog on Christmas day. The tumbler had a festive holly decoration on it, and the drink itself, from the carton, was dolled up with a splash of brandy and a sprinkle of nutmeg on top. I could handle one or two sips, max. It was, well, too sludgy in texture, as the article suggests, and rich.

I know I couldn’t stomach store-bought eggnog now anymore than I did as a kid. But I would consider making and trying a home-made version. I’m thinking I’m not alone. Does anyone have a recipe they’re confident about?

What Did You Have For Lunch Today?

Photo: dvs/Flickr

I myself just had my Friday favorite–a sunflower seed butter sandwich with blueberry jam on multigrain bread. It’s hearty, healthy (to my mind), a bit sweet and my nod to the one day of the week I stay home with my youngest. Oh, and some milk, too.

How about you? Was your lunch today homemade, store-bought or cooked up fresh while you waited in line?

PRK’s monthly contributor Anastacia Marx de Salcedo has a few thoughts to share on the subject of that all-American lunch, the sandwich. I am guessing you do, too?

Thursday Tidbits: Season of Giving

Photo: Belinda (miscdebris)/Flickr

LOCAL BITES

Pro Bake Sale
The chef instructors, students and alumni of Cambridge School of Culinary Arts will be hosting their 5th Annual Holiday Bake Sale December 11th from 10am-3pm to benefit Share Our Strength. There won’t just be baked goods for sale—there will also be a raffle of donated items from local restaurants and businesses. Take a look at the list here.

“Research”
There will be a free champagne and port tasting at Urban Grape in Chestnut Hill December 12th from 6:30-9:30pm. Sip with Alicia Towns Franken, a Best of Boston sommelier, as she walks you through these before and after-dinner drinks. Maybe you’ll find a new bubbly for New Year’s?

Cautious Shopping
Shopping for the cook in your life? Clueless? BostonChefs launched “25 Days of Gift Ideas From and For Boston Chefs” last week. A different local chef will announce what’s on their holiday list this year every day until Christmas. (But before you rush to the store, remember Anastacia Marx de Salcedo’s advice in “What NOT to Get the Cook on Your List”!)

New Sweety in Town
Fate threw Elaine Hsieh and Catharine Sweeney together over ten years ago when a mutual friend asked them to make a wedding cake (their first). The two are still talking, and they’re even in business together with the brand spankin’ new Elaine Hsieh Chocolatier in Somerville. Check out these beautiful chocolates (did I mention there’s a monthly chocolate club membership?).

Winter Brew
Sam Adams announces their Winter Classic Brews, including Chocolate Bock and the return of White Ale. Then there’s of course the release of Infinium, a champagne-style brew perfect for the upcoming New Year’s celebrations. Cheers!

Cheap Stamp in Your Passport
The Boston Center for Adult Education
can take you on a culinary adventure around the world during their “Around the World in $15″ series. Starting January 4th-7th, there will be one-night classes that focus on the culture and cuisine of a specific country—some of which include Greece, China, India, and Argentina. Chau!

NATIONAL TREATS

20 (?!) Holiday Cookies
Saveur’s got a list of the top twenty holiday cookies AND how to make them. They’ve got the standard gingerbread, sugar cookie, and shortbread, but there are also some zingers in there like Austrian Vanillekipferl and Argentine Alfajores (which are amaaaaaziiinnggg).

Cold Weather Be Damned
The USDA announced there are 898 winter farmers markets across the country, which means there’s been a 17% increase since 2009. A proper “winter” farmers market is in operation between November and March. Does Massachusetts have any farmers markets? You betcha’, 32 to be exact. Check some of those out here.

Tweak at Will
Are you a slave to your cookbook? Daniel Duane of Food and Wine managed to break free of ‘1/4 this and 1/4 that’ after chef Thomas Keller taught him how to become a more intuitive cook in five simple steps.

Mess Hall Food Not So Messy
There’s been a change in the US military’s diet: now in the mess hall, there are healthy, color-coded options with more produce, whole grains, yogurt and granola. Where the program has been implemented, army leaders report “fewer injuries and higher scores on physical fitness tests.”

What Boston Eats: Vietnamese Food in Dorchester

No stemmed wine glasses or handsome waiters this time. Instead, you get a “fresh, fresh, fresh” (and delicious, cheap!) Vietnamese meal, straight out of Dorchester. Oh, yeah–and first date advice for you men out there. Sarah Kleinman of Boston Eats reviews Pho So 1 Boston.

(Read HERE the backstory on Sarah, and why she began these oh-so-local,  really funny and FRANK restaurant reviews called Boston Eats.)

(Get Sarah’s last review HERE: it’s of Ariana, an Afghani restaurant in Allston.)

Flora’s Winter Squash Soup with Apple and Ginger

Bob Sargent of Flora (Photo: Susanna Bolle)

There are few things that take the chill off a cold, winter’s day as effectively as a hot bowl of soup. If it’s made with vitamin-rich squash and local  apples, so much the better!

I recently visited the Flora restaurant in East Arlington, where chef and owner Bob Sargent shared his version of this cold-weather New England classic: Winter Squash Soup with Apple and Ginger. It’s the kind of recipe that’s almost too good to be true. For a dish that’s relatively easy to make, it’s surprisingly sophisticated and intensely flavored. While many squash soup recipes call for chicken stock or cream, Bob uses apple cider, which adds a wonderful depth of flavor. So the soup may taste creamy and decadent, but it has very little fat. And, as if that weren’t enough, it’s also positively jam-packed with nutrients.

As Bob says, “If you eat this soup and you eat kale, you’ll probably live forever.” Who knew immortality was so deliciously simple?

Winter Squash Soup with Apple and Ginger

2 tablespoons vegetable oil or butter
Generous pinch salt and pepper
2 cups onion, chopped
1 cup celery, chopped
6 cups winter squash, such as Hubbard, butternut, or acorn, roasted and peeled (you can also substitute sweet potatoes)
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, peeled and minced
1 teaspoon ginger powder
2 cups apples, peeled, cored, and sliced
1 Qt. +/- apple cider
1 cup toasted walnuts, créme fraiche, sour cream, or diced apples for garnish (optional)

1. Heat the oil or butter over medium heat in a 4qt.+ soup pan. Add the onion and celery. Cook until soft, 5 minutes or so.

2. Add the apples and gingers and a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Stir for a minute and then add the cored, sliced apples, the squash and the cider, so it just covers the other ingredients. Bring to a simmer and cook until soft. 20 minutes should do.

3. Remove from the heat and allow to cool a bit. You may add a cup or two of ice cubes at this point to cool it down as well as the rest of the cider.

4.  Puree the soup in batches in a blender or in the pot with an immersion blender.  A food processor makes too much of a mess.  Reheat and top with chopped nuts, sliced apples, créme fraiche, or sour cream.

Winter CSAs and Rest: Can Farmers Do Both?

Photo: Courtesy of Powisset Farm

Meryl LaTronica
Farm Manager, Powisset Farm

Winter on a farm is something that I’m pretty sure most vegetable farmers look forward to. The winter is, in part, our time of rest. It’s a time when we stop working fourteen-hour days, seven days a week. By December 1, I’m down to about four days a week, eight hours a day. Not a bad life. By the time our hours have diminished, we have also said farewell to most of our seasonal farm crew, leaving just me and my assistant manager to simultaneously “put the farm to bed” for the season and begin the real planning stages for the next.

Like the last four seasons, this period of rest, planning and putting the farm to bed is happening at the same time that our winter CSA is going on. Here at Powisset Farm, and on most farms like us around Massachusetts, we run a winter CSA program. Much like our summer CSA, we have members who participate in buying a “share” of winter vegetables from our farm. The members come to the farm two times, once in November and once in December, to pick up their vegetables. The share is heavy on root crops, winter squash, onions and hearty greens, but we try to include as much diversity as the weather will permit. This year the weather has allowed for quite a lot!

The pick-up days are boisterous, joyful chaos, with families and friends coming back to the farm after being away for a few weeks. There are reuniting hugs between CSA members and crew members, there are smiling children running in and out of the barn and fields, and there are plenty of comments like, ‘how do we still have lettuce out there!’ The weeks leading up to the pick-ups are even more chaotic, as the dwindling farm crew and stoic volunteers pack the cooler with dirt-covered root vegetables, harvesting sometimes 1000 pounds of one vegetable at a time, hauling it into the cooler only to haul it out a week later. Tired backs and knees are spending time in cold soil, and shoulders are working hard not to tense up as we dislodge roots from the earth. Working an eight-hour day in the cold, windy fields, covered in so many layers it’s hard to hear, is more strenuous then those fourteen-hour August marathon days.

Year after year, as our season of growing food gets longer and our time of rest gets shorter and shorter, we have to ask ourselves why we do this. Is it just because we can? Or is it that our community’s commitment to getting their food locally has increased? Our collective desire to rely more on ourselves , to source food from New England as long as we possibly can, has increased exponentially since I became a farmer.

This Saturday is our last winter share pick-up. One of my CSA members has asked me, “Where am I going to get my produce now?” We both know that it may soon be time to wander back to the grocery store, to pick through unappealing items shipped from far-away places. As I observe many of my fellow farmers move to a year-round CSA model, I can’t help but wonder if I will do the same. But I might wait to see how they look in the Spring!

P.S. from Sue: if you’d like to visit Powisset Farm, take a walk and/or say hello to Meryl, tomorrow’s a perfect day! Dec. 4th, noon-4pm, is the farm’s last winter veggie sale. Powisset produce for the having will include potatoes, parsnips, rutabega, onions, leeks, shallots, garlic, winter squash, radishes and more. There will also be local jam, honey, dried flowers, popcorn and a special pottery sale. Straight from Meryl: “Yay!”

Photo: Courtesy of Powisset Farm

Thursday Tidbits: Bringin’ in the Dough

Photo: twistedanchor/Flickr

LOCAL BITES

Our Daily Bread
Peter Nyberg of Plymouth turned a negative into a positive when he lost his job in 2009 as senior director of bakery at Whole Foods. He got back to the basics and opened Hearth Wood Fired Bread in Plymouth, where he makes bread daily in the 18th-century tradition: using organic grains and natural starter, shaping by hand, and baking with fire. Nyberg gets really old school with his 60-ton gueulard masonry from France. Read the full article HERE and find out which local markets carry Hearth Wood’s breads.

Nose-Ticklin’ Good
BostonZest’s indefatigable duo, Penny and Ed, have found a special sparkle for this holiday season: Organic Etienne Dupont, a sparkling apple cider from Normandie that will keep you warm and bubbly as the temps drop.

A Bar Your Kids Can Get Into
From December 4th-18th, Cafe Fleuri will put a festive spin on their weekly Chocolate Bar. Enjoy (or ignore) the sound of carolers as you indulge in every kind of chocolate in every form. Santa will even make an appearance each week to take orders from kiddies. The price is $42 for adults, $28 for children under 13, and those under 5 get in for free. Call (617) 956-8751 for reservations, available from 11am-1:30pm.

Celebrating 10 Years of Yum
Catch the end of Beacon Hill Bistro’sDecade of Decadence,” a 10-day celebration commemorating their 10 years of business, ending December 7th. Each night will feature a special dish and one wine or cocktail representative of the food trends of that particular year. There will also be a special four-course menu paired with champagne selected by Alicia Towns Franken, an official Ambassador of Champagne, on December 2nd at 7pm. Tickets for this dinner are $75. Call (617) 723-7575 for reservations and information.

World Specials in Celebration of Hanukkah
Saveur went around the world and back to make their list of the ten best recipes from Jewish delis. Find out what made the cut here.

Sweet Tooth
Get in the holiday spirit December 10th from 12:30-8pm at Ye Olde Pepper Candy Companie in Salem. It’s their Annual Holiday Open House where they’ll be rolling out handmade candy canes and doling out hot chocolate.

Fingers Crossed
Hopefully Tiffani Faison, Executive Chef at Rocca, will keep moving ahead on this season of Bravo’s Top Chef All Stars. Not just for city bragging rights, but also for the weekly Wednesday night specials Rocca will offer to show their support. Faison has a good track record though: she was a finalist in Season 1 and a winner in the holiday special. Tune in Wednesday nights at 10pm and root for a local.

NATIONAL TREATS

Earth-Friendly Gift Ideas
Change.org keeps Mother Earth in mind with their list of holiday gift ideas for foodies dedicated to sustainable living. From Fair Trade-certified coffee for grownups to organic, all natural treats for pets, Change has got you covered.

Healthy Holiday Cookies
There’s a lot of baking to be done in the upcoming weeks, so if you’re a health-conscious baker, check out these tips on how to make cookies leaner.

“Best of” Dining
NY Times checks out the new restaurant trend: menus featuring only one entree. Diane Cardwell visits eateries dedicated to foods like meatballs, peanut butter, fried chicken, mac and cheese, and rice pudding.

Post #5: Foray into Sauces

Photo: Suzie Ridler/Flickr

Week VI: Sauces
(Read the whole series here: Intro; Week I: Knife Skills; Week II: Eggs; Week III: Soups and Stocks; Week IV: Moist Heat Cooking)

The “Back to Basics” series at the Cambridge School of Culinary Arts ended for good this week on a very high and very delicious note: sauces. Sauces are the makers and breakers of meals, the notch kicker-upper, the thing that takes a piece of meat from bland and blah to really freakin’ good. Though they can be a little temperamental (more on that later) and surprisingly time-consuming, it’s well worth it.

Chef first gave us a rundown of the Mother Sauces: those that are egg-based (hollandaise and mayonnaise) and those that are roux-based (béchamel, velouté and espagnole). Once you’ve mastered these, you can make even more sauces by adding a few extra ingredients. For example, aioli sauce is just mayonnaise plus garlic, and sauce Robert is basically espagnole with shallots.

The dish I made incorporated a velouté sauce, which is a simple combination of butter, flour, chicken stock, and salt and pepper. I say simple, but, to be honest, it took two attempts to get it right. Continue reading

Happy Hanukkah!

Photo: Flickr/SwedishCarina

While the menorah is pretty and lighting candles is lovely, let’s be honest: in the end Hanukkah is really about oil. The miracle of it, that is. So no matter how you celebrate, whether by whipping up some latkes or sampling tiny Tunisian doughnuts, you better honor that tiny olive.

And what better way to do it than with an oil tasting? This Thursday, the folks at Cambridge’s Formaggio Kitchen team up with PRISM, a Young Adult Initiative at the New Center for Arts and Culture, to do a blind tasting of olive oils at the Mobius Gallery.

Full disclosure: I’m involved in planning these events and will do my darndest to be there. But really, who could say ‘no’ to one of the healthiest oils on the planet?

For more info, click HERE.